The side of Kashmir tourists skip

Tech moves fast, but you're still playing catch-up?

That's exactly why 100K+ engineers working at Google, Meta, and Apple read The Code twice a week.

Here's what you get:

All delivered twice a week in just 2 short emails.

Join 100K+ engineers

Read time: 3.5 mins

Hi Anirban here. In this newsletter, I help foreigners discover the untold India. Two issues a week, straight to your inbox.

Today, we’re talking about Gurez Valley, a remote valley in North Kashmir, surrounded by tall mountains, pine forests, and the Kishanganga River flowing through the middle.

It is close to the border, so tourism is still low. The star view at night is one of the best in Kashmir. The valley remains covered in snow during winter, so the best time to visit is from May to September. Outside these months, the Razdan Pass often closes due to snowfall.

Land at Srinagar Airport. From there, book a private cab because public transport is not frequent. Ask the driver to take you via the Bandipora route.

On the way, you will cross the Razdan Pass, which is the highest point of the journey, and the view from here is amazing. You will see snow walls in early summer and green slopes later.

The road is narrow after Bandipora, so expect slow driving. Total travel time is between 5 to 7 hours, depending on stops. There are army checkpoints along the way, you will need to show ID once or twice.

The network drops often in the valley, so download offline maps.

Stays here are mostly homestays and small guest houses.

This is not a luxury destination. A good place to stay is is Habba Khatoon Guest House, which is close to the Habba Khatoon peak. Rooms have basic beds, clean washrooms, mountain view balconies and heating arrangements in cold hours. Homestays in Dawar village give a better cultural experience where you sit with hosts, talk about local life, and eat together. The expected cost for a comfortable room with meals is around $120 to $180 per night.

Food is not that simple here. A fair warning. Although the foods are fresh and mostly non-spicy. But it can upset your stomach.

Must try Rogan Josh for dinner, Kahwa with saffron in the morning, grilled Trout fish near the river, Gushtaba in yoghurt gravy, Girda bread with butter, and dried vegetable dishes that locals store for winter.

Most meals are cooked by families, so you get the real local taste. Tell them your spice preference early.

The area is safe for travellers, but due to its location, you will notice army camps.

This is normal. Keep your ID handy for check posts. Avoid wandering late at night away from the main village. Roads have sharp turns and landslides sometimes in the rainy season, so check the weather before travelling.

(For women and solo travellers, staying close to Dawar village or established homestays is better.)

Respect local rules, dress modestly and do not fly drones without permission.

People speak the Kashmiri and Shina languages.

They are shy at first, but once you greet politely, conversations open up.

You should remove your shoes before entering homes.

Ask before taking photos, especially of women. Locals love sharing stories about winters and old times, sit with them during evening tea and listen.

Hospitality is strong here, you may be offered tea even by strangers. Accept it kindly.

Shops close early, so do not expect city nightlife. Life here moves slowly, and that is the beauty of the place.

In India, you will first land at Srinagar Airport in Kashmir.

This is the starting point for your Gurez Valley trip. After landing, book a private cab directly from the airport or from Srinagar city. The drive to Gurez takes around 5 to 7 hours.

There will be army checkpoints, so keep your ID card handy. You will cross the Razdan Pass, which is the highest part of the route. If you stop here, you will get a wide open mountain view. After the pass, the road becomes narrower and leads you into Gurez. Check in at your stay, rest for a while and take a simple walk near the Kishanganga river. This helps you adjust to the new weather and altitude.

Drink Kahwa or tea in the evening and sleep early for a fresh start the next day.

Day 2 begins with breakfast at your homestay. The first place to visit is the Habba Khatoon viewpoint. The peak is visible from many parts of the valley and is one of the main spots here. You can spend time clicking photos, sitting near the river and watching people fish. After that, explore Dawar village. Walk inside the lanes, visit small shops and speak to locals about life in winter when the valley gets cut off. For lunch, try Trout fish if you eat non-veg, as it is fresh and common here. In the second half, you can visit the small market, buy simple wool items, and sit by the river during sunset. The sky becomes orange, and the valley turns quiet. Eat dinner at your stay and rest.

Day 3 is for slow travel. Wake up early for a short village walk. Mornings are the best time to see daily life, like kids going to school, women carrying firewood, or men feeding livestock.

After breakfast, pack your bags and start your return drive to Srinagar. If the weather is good, stop again at Razdan Pass for one more look. You will reach Srinagar by evening.

If you have one extra day, you can visit Tulail Valley. It is further inside Gurez, and even fewer travellers go there. Roads are rough and remote, so only go with a driver who knows the route well. The mountain views here are wider and the villages even smaller.

Stay for 2 nights: $240 to 360

Food for 3 days: $40 to 60

Private cab Srinagar to Gurez return: $250 to 350

Local expenses and permits: $40 to 80

Total comfortable approx per person: $570 to 850

Kashmir is called Paradise on Earth for a reason. You should visit it as soon as you can! You won’t regret it.

See you in the next edition. Khodayas Hosh.