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Hi Anirban here. In this newsletter, I help foreigners discover the untold India. Two issues a week, straight to your inbox.
Know the place
Malana is a high-altitude village in Himachal Pradesh that functions as a closed social system rather than a tourist settlement.
Daily life is governed by Jamlu Devta, whose authority is interpreted through an inherited village council. Law here is not symbolic.
It is enforced through belief and social pressure. The village maintains distance from outsiders to protect internal order, not to attract attention. Homes, pathways, and interactions are designed to minimise external influence. Though entry is allowed.
Easiest route
You need to be routed through Indira Gandhi International Airport in Delhi, the most reliable global entry point.
From Delhi, travel continues to Bhuntar Airport, also known as Kullu Manali Airport, code KUU. This is the closest airport to Malana.
Delhi to Bhuntar flight duration is approximately 90 minutes and typically costs between $70 and $120.
From Bhuntar, road travel begins into the Parvati valley.
A private taxi to Jari village takes around 2 hours and costs $25 to $40. Jari is the last motorable point.
From Jari, Malana is reached only by foot via a 4 to 5-hour uphill trek. The trek is steep and continuous.
Where would you stay?
You can’t say inside Malana village as it is culturally discouraged and restricted.
Accommodation is available in nearby villages such as Jari or lower Parvati valley settlements. These include basic guesthouses and homestays with limited facilities.
You will have ordinary rooms, poor electricity, and cold water, depending on the season.
Average cost per night ranges from $15 to $35. Also, respect the village cultural boundaries and avoid conflict.
Don’t miss these foods
Meals are centred around rice, lentils, seasonal vegetables, and simple flatbreads.
Cooking emphasises digestion and sustenance. Spices are less. Ingredients depend entirely on altitude and season.
Packaged food and alcohol are not allowed near the village due to cultural norms.
You can have food from the locals, it is all about the experience.
Safety
Malana is socially strict but won’t bring you any trouble.
Safety depends on behaviour. The homes, walls, temples, or people without permission are considered a violation and can result in fines imposed by the village council.
You should not take photos without consent. There is almost no mobile network.
Medical facilities are not too close.
Cultural insights
People gave the authority to a certain tribe member because of their belief. The village council is divided into senior and junior bodies with defined roles in governance and dispute resolution.
Decisions are collective and final. The belief that villagers descend from Alexander’s soldiers exists as a shared identity narrative, regardless of historical debate.
You can’t question the system, as it is viewed as an intrusion.
Itineary
Day 1. Reach the base village
You need to land at Indira Gandhi International Airport, Delhi. From Delhi, you take a domestic flight to Bhuntar Airport. After landing at Bhuntar, you take a taxi to Jari village. The drive takes around 2 hours. You need to check into a guesthouse in Jari.
Use this day to rest, eat, and prepare for the trek. Buy water, snacks, and basic needs here because options are very limited. And yes, make sure to sleep early.
Day 2. Trek to Malana and return
You gotta wake up early and have a light breakfast. From Jari, you need to start the trek to Malana village. The trek takes about 4 to 5 hours uphill. Wear proper shoes and carry enough water. Once you reach Malana, you need to enter and stay only in the allowed areas.
You can’t touch walls, houses, or people. You need to avoid unnecessary photography.
You can walk through the village paths, observe how the village is structured, and understand how space and movement are controlled.
You can spend limited time inside the village. By early afternoon, you should start the descent and return to Jari before it gets dark.
Day 3. Nearby villages and exit
You can use this day to walk around nearby villages and forest paths around Jari. You can talk to locals who live near Malana to understand how they interact with the village.
This gives you the touch of the locals. After lunch, you have to travel back to Bhuntar and continue your onward journey.
Budget
International flight
The average long-haul economy airfare to Delhi is $900.
Domestic flight
Delhi to Bhuntar Airport return flight costs $100.
Ground transport
Taxi from Bhuntar Airport to Jari village costs $35 one way.
Local transport and short-distance travel cost $15.
Accommodation
A guesthouse or homestay near Malana costs $25 per night.
Two nights’ accommodation costs $50.
Food
Daily meals cost $7.
Food cost for three days is $21.
Trek-related expenses
An optional local guide for one day costs $20.
Miscellaneous
Water, snacks, and small expenses cost $20.
Total estimated cost excluding international flight
$261.
Total estimated cost, including international flight
$1,161.
The village follows its own legal and social system that has remained functional for centuries. Also the Himachal is in the Western Himalayas, and the climate is moderate throughout the year.
See you in the next edition. Khodayas Hosh.